The Fashion Voice: October 2009

Friday 23 October 2009

The October Issues

Words of wisdom from those in power this month...

"The words 'star' and 'icon' are tossed about rather carelessly these days."

Julie. L. Belcove, Editor, W Magazine, October 2009

"Fashion is Vogue's blood, but the connection between fashion and contemporary music grows ever stronger."
Alexandra Shulman, Editor, British Vogue, October 2009

"Christian Lacroix, in my view, led the way forward for the haute couture two decades ago by making it relevant and exciting for younger clients and for direction-watchers the world over."

Anna Wintour, Editor, American Vogue, October 2009

"It is London that leads the world in producing innovative designers and couturiers, and every year more talent streams from our colleges and universities."

Boris Johnson, Mayor of London and Guest Editor, British Elle Magazine, October 2009

"The core desire to look out best is not negated by a decline in disposable income... Because it's not our vanity that keeps beauty relevant. It's our humanity."

David DeNicolo, Contributing Editor, Allure Magazine, October 2009

Thursday 22 October 2009

Deja Vu - Designer to Highstreet...

You look familiar, havn't I seen you somewhere before? Damn right you have, except I came with a significantly bigger price tag!

Check out Topshop's version of the A/W 09, Louis Vuitton, magenta mini. Exaggerated shoulders - check. Exaggerated hips - check. Tiny structured bodice - Check. This dress is perfect on so many levels. Oh and here's the best bit... the Topshop sale commenced online today and it's reduced from £50 to, wait for it, £25. Ker-ching!

Tuesday 20 October 2009

Burberry Prorsum S/S10 Show Review

It was the hottest ticket of London Fashion Week and the much-anticipated Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 10 show impressed a star-studded audience with perfect pastel shades and trench coats with attitude…

With a move from Milan to London, and a front row including Gywneth Paltrow, Liv Tyler, Mary-Kate Olsen and Victoria Beckham, Burberry Prorsum’s Creative Director, Christopher Bailey was under pressure to put on a good show and boy did he succeed.

The classic Burberry trench had been completely transformed and modernised into something young and fresh. Coats morphed into stunning mini dresses, while interesting silhouettes were created through structured, exaggerated shoulders.

To put it simply Bailey has given the trench a new-found attitude. The vibe emanating from the catwalk was this: It’s not just a coat, it’s a Burberry Prorsum trench coat.

However, it wasn’t all about the coats as Bailey also presented an exciting range of cardigans, mini skirts, bubble-hem dresses and skinny trousers all exhibiting intricately twisted detailing, adding variety to the collection.

Traditional Burberry shades of nude and beige were evident, but soft pastel tones of pink, lilac, silver, peppermint, pale green and blue made a delightful addition to the colour palette for spring.

Draped tulle dresses gave a youthful look, whereas duchess satin trench coats provided a glamorous, luxe feel for the season.

Waists were cinched in with belts in thick military styles and narrow brown leather varieties and sleeves were shortened to three-quarter length for the summer months.

Skyscraper platform sandals looked effortlessly cool worn with grey ankle socks, which is almost certainly going to be a big trend for spring/summer.

Glitter sprinkled from above as supermodels, including Lily Donaldson, Chanel Iman and Freja Beha Erichsen, strutted out onto the catwalk for the finale. As the closing show to the 25th Anniversary of London Fashion Week, the Burberry Prorsum show was like the icing on the cake. A fantastic ending to one of the greatest fashion weeks London has ever known.

Luella S/S10 Show Review

For Spring/Summer 10 the Luella girl has grown up… Gone are the ditsy prints and layers of tulle we’ve come to expect from the former Voguette-turned-designer. Instead, in their place, Luella Bartley presented us with a more formal collection of fun, flirty dresses and pretty skirt suits.

More moderate than Bartley’s usual style, the collection still retains the tongue-in-cheek attitude of former collections.

A spectrum of colours was on offer ranging from muted tones of beige, black and white to louder shades of lemon, pale blue and bright red.

Dresses with sweetheart necklines, and even one with a cutout heart on the front, stole the show and are sure to sell like hot-cakes.

Skirts and dresses had high waistlines, accentuated with narrow belts in some cases. Silhouettes came in tulip shapes, some with padded hips for added volume. Whilst black tailored, knee-length shorts, and high-waisted polka dot trousers catered for those looking for a chic, less feminine look.

Well-made double-breasted wool coats worked as smart and elegant cover-ups, while skirt suits gave a pretty, grown-up style.

Bartley’s designs did not stop at the clothes as she also exhibited a collection of must-have boxy patent grab bags and shiny patent shoes, all topped off with cute girlish hair bows.
Luella’s spring collection may not be quite what we expected, but wearable, shapes in adorable, girly colours are sure to be a big hit for spring.

Kinder Aggugini S/S10 Show Review

A collection of pretty, doll-like dresses inserted with juxtaposing dark fabrics, made up Kinder Aggugini’s ‘Loss Of Innocence’ Spring/Summer 10 collection.

With a mixture of textures and printed fabrics ranging from outsized polka dots and reptile prints to houndstooth tweed and fluorescent silk, the collection takes it inspiration from the darker elements of fairytales.

Tea-party frocks were ripped at the seams then reconstructed to create sexy, ragged, puffball dresses. Child-like curls created by hair stylist, Malcolm Edwards, and Cupid’s bow lips designed by makeup artist, Pat McGrath, both work to add to the sense of naivety and innocence.

“It’s that moment when, as a child, you realise that the stories you were told begin to reveal a different meaning. You begin to understand there is a dark underlying strand and the naivety goes,” explains Aggugini.

It’s not just about the dresses though… The collection also includes neat-fitted jackets, crafted with Aggugini’s Saville Row trained-eye and the look was topped off with hats created by London milliner, Stephen Jones.

As a Central St. Martins graduate, Aggugini has worked for top fashion houses including John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Calvin Klein and Versace, where he gathered a wealth of knowledge about fabrics.

With a prominent theme and fun, well-designed pieces, the ‘Loss of Innocence’ collection is creative, yet wearable and is one of the strongest collections on offer from London’s Spring/Summer collections.

John Rocha S/S10 Show Review

Whimsical headpieces and ruffled mini dresses, contrasted with sculpted, sharper silhouettes made up John Rocha’s Spring/Summer 10 collection.

A palette of black and white was broken up with a rainbow of colours in shades of coral, green, peach, umber, almond and blue, dusted throughout with sparkling gold sequins.

Rocha used a range of textures to demonstrate his craftsmanship and to create a varied, interesting result including hand crochet that was treated and sculpted to create impressive silhouettes. Sheer panels were hidden throughout the collection within sculpted dresses and tops, adding an unexpected softness to sharp, clean lines.

Rocha had his work cut out with an A-list front row including milliner, Stephen Jones and Prime Minister’s Wife, Sarah Brown, but his diverse collection of jackets, trousers, jumpsuits, dresses and skirts was certainly impressive, oozing a distinctly delicate and dream-like quality.

Osman S/S10 Show Review

In a single colour palette of white, accented with gold, Osman’s Spring/Summer 10 ‘White Collection’ offered simple and structured sharp silhouettes.

The absence of colour draws attention to the variety of fabric textures used including cheesecloths, blended silks and soft suedes in off-white shades.

Touches of gold used in patches and dip-dyed edges add a glossy, luxe-feel to the spring collection.

Kimono silhouettes mirror ethnical shapes of Japan while other, more abstract, shapes provide a futuristic, modern feel. Oversized eyelets looped through with jersey hint at a nautical theme for summer.

Echoing his Autumn/Winter 09 collection, Yousefzada has again produced interesting, trendy shades to accompany his collection that are sure to be hot sellers.

The ‘White Collection’ is all about crisp, cleans lines offering wearable, futuristic style for a pure, fresh look on hot summer days to come.